Like his signature Dish, a double-baked potato heaped with the good stuff, Caviar Kaspia feels cozy and decadent at the same time. Since 1953, foodies and foodies have flocked to this institution’s Parisian mothership, a club-like, wood-paneled space on the second floor above the Place de la Madeleine, not far from where Russian émigré Arcady Fixon started the business in 1927.
Caviar Kaspia is particularly popular with the high rollers of the fashion world. It is the Place to entertain tastefully but generously. (A spud costs between €98 and €1,083, depending on the caviar. The rest of the menu features a lot of smoked fish with an emphasis on salmon and other seafood.)
During couture or ready-to-wear weeks, the place swarms with the likes of Giambattista Valli, Tom Ford, Betty Catroux, Naomi Campbell, Valentino and Carine Roitfeld, who lounge on aquamarine mohair banquettes when they’re not off the table hopping to the table, a Caspian custom. Jay-Z and Beyoncé are known to dig in when they’re in town. So does an actor who is currently in the news for his courtroom struggles. On a sweltering night last summer, the star and 30 members of his entourage arrived at 11:30 p.m. and continued sailing until 3 a.m., according to a spy.
Unfortunately, Ramon Mac-Crohon, CEO of Caviar Kaspia, doesn’t babble. “What happens at Caviar Kaspia stays at Caviar Kaspia. Discretion is our greatest asset,” he says.
“We never say no, or at least always try to find a way to make the customer happy.
“There are many, many stories,” he continues teasingly. “If these walls could talk, they would tell endless stories. Thank God they can’t.”
This month, enchantment comes to Manhattan as the brand opens its first permanent location in New York at the Mark Hotel. When ground floor space in the Upper East Side landmark (and venue of the Met Gala) became available earlier this year, Izak Senbahar, a co-owner of the property, acted quickly. “Caviar Kaspia has always been one of my favorite restaurants in Paris,” he says. “So I called Ramon.”
“That corner – 77th and Madison – is the perfect place,” agrees Mac-Crohon, who has spearheaded the brand’s global expansion. This week, Caviar Kaspia Los Angeles opens in an open-air garden on Melrose Place. Doors will soon open in Dubai, São Paolo, London and St. Tropez.
“We keep the DNA but adapt the atmosphere and menu to each location. Madison Avenue will be very Caspian, but tailored for New York,” says the CEO.
As with the brand’s other locations, eggs with caviar, pasta with caviar, blinis with caviar, salmon and more will be on the menu. (You can also dine with a clear conscience. No staple of the house is sourced from Russia or from endangered species; all Caspia caviar is farm-raised.)
For the interior of the New York outpost, Mac-Crohon and Senbahar tapped into French design titan Jacques Granges. Like the original, the ambience in New York will be soft and old-fashioned, with blue tablecloths, those mohair banquettes and a copper bar. “This is going to be the sexiest Caspia we’ve ever done,” promises Mac-Crohon.
“My goal is to increase the energy and vibrancy of upper Madison Avenue,” says Senbahar. “Caviar Kaspia will be a great addition. I’m sure our guests and neighbors will welcome it and ask themselves, ‘why didn’t we have this before?’ ”
https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2022/10/caviar-kaspia-us Caviar Kaspia Is Bringing Its Celebrity Glitz and $1,000 Baked Potatoes Stateside